Tuesday, March 31, 2009


This coat of arms was in the Cuéllar Castle outside of Segovia. This castle was not my favorite during the trip however I did learn something very interesting about the coat of arms here that I was unaware of before. Here the guide told us that each family has its own coat of arms and after marriage they are combined. The photo here is a the coat of arms that was hanging in the castle after a marriage. After thinking about this information I decided I was interested in reading more about the coat of arms and its importance in Spain. Many families have their own family coat of arms and that this tradition found its origin in Europe and more specifically England. The current Spanish coat of arms finds its home on the national flag and replaced the Francoist depiction in 1981. A year later the official colors of the Arms of Spain were officially decided. The Spanish coat of arms is comprised of six different coat of arms which includes: the Kingdom of Castille, the Kingdom of Leon, Crown of Aragon, Kingdom of Navarre, Kingdom of Granada, House of Bourbon. Also there are distinct symbols intertwined into the design: Pillars of Hercules- this symbolizes the Straight of Gibraltar, Imperial Crown and the Spanish Royal crown. This image has undergone many revisions over the years however I think that the motto above the pillars of Hercules is very interesting to Spain. It says:"Plus Ultra" or "more beyond". I think this is very fitting considering the tumultuous history we have learned about since arriving here. Between the inquisition, Spanish Civil War and the Dictatorship of Francisco Franco this motto allows for hope and the idea of Spain rising up from the ashes to something greater. Over the past thirty years this has been prevalent through immigration, tourism, and the transition to Democracy. Through change a country can progress and through the national flag and its current model I think Spain has definitely made progress.

Monday, March 30, 2009

This weekend in Valencia I also had my first real Tapas experience. Trying new things can be a little intimidating but as we soon found out tapas are not to be feared. However, tapas as delightful as they are were no match for the experience of trying 2 new drinks in Spain. First we tried Sidra this cold apple cider with alcohol in it. Okay so I am not entirely sure if this is true but I read in a few different articles that sidra was actually banned by Francisco Franco after the Spanish Civil War. Also that production came to almost a standstill as people left the farms for the city. Production later picked up speed in the 80s. The cider is kept in huge barrels called “Kupelas”. After a few more tapas Alice showed us what Txakoli was. This is a sparkling white wine from the Basque region of spain and very smooth on the palate. I enjoyed coming home and reading some information about this beverage. Usually Txakoli is consumed within one year of being processed as it does not store well. Also it is usually poured into flat glasses from varying heights. I did not know however, that this delicious drink almost became extinct because it was home-distilled until the 1980s. It is traditionally fermented in oak barrels however; today many areas are switching to stainless steel vats.

Santiago Calatrava is my favorite architect. He is known across the globe for his futuristic style of architecture however, this genius is more than an architect; he is an artist, an engineer as well as a sculptor. Calatrava born in Valencia, Spain was contracted to design one of my favorite complexes in the world: The Ciudad de Ciencias y Artes. This complex was designed in order to celebrate the arrival of the 21st century and is simply breathtaking. Also Alice asked me questions about this masterpiece and hopefully the following answers them for her. The project began in 1991 in order to bring more tourism into Valencia, other than the time during Las Fallas. Construction has been going on since then until 2006. Calatrava was presented with the task of designing a multifunctional area after the flood of the adding River Turia destroyed the area in 1957. The land stretches for slightly over 7km and consists mostly of gardens and a public park. We visited all of the buildings within the complex except for the Opera house and it was exciting because each building offers something different. The Hemisferic (my favorite)was constructed in the shape of an eye and was the first to open in 1998. Calatrava has noted his inspiration for the building came from the idea that an eye “serves as a universal 'eye opener' to all who enter it and learn from what is found within.” It is here we watched the IMAX on the Deep Sea-our prelude to the Aquarium the next day.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Friday we visited Salamanca, and as I have come to learn an excursion means that we are most definitely going to see a cathedral. The New Cathedral was started in 1512 to help stabilize the deteriorating Old Cathedral built from1200's to 1300's AD. Today, the New Cathedral is the only entrance to the connecting old, Romanesque, old cathedral. However it is the old cathedral that enchanted me. Once you enter the old cathedral you are in awe over the beautiful golden altar and tombs of important men and women of the church. However, if you look beneath your feet you are able to see something really amazing. If you cannot tell tomb number 94 is in the picture. There are rows of tombs with number on them that represent people who died of bubonic plague. We were standing on the plague! That is insane to think about. It was also funny that upon this discovery a few of us decided that the plague was coming up through the stone and seeping into our shoes. The Black Death however, is transferred by fleas, which fed on the bodies of rats that were infected with the bacteria. Then when the infected coughed, the bacterium was transmitted through the air. This plague killed roughly 75 million people and in Spain roughly 35 percent of the population. Therefore in reality I don’t think it is transferable through stone but one never knows.
Saint Teresa was born in Avila, Spain, March 28, 1515. The Saint of Avila which we visited on Friday. To be honest there are some very interesting things about this woman that I was unaware of. In her early years Teresa began to take an interest in the natural attractions to boys and in books of chivalry. Her affections were directed especially to her cousins, and it is to them that she gave some thought to marriage. Her father was disturbed by these feelings toward her kin and opposed them. While she was going through the hardships of being a teenager, her mother suddenly died. Lonely, Teresa appealed to the Blessed Virgin to be her mother. Seeing his daughter's need of prudent guidance, her father entrusted her to the Augustinian nuns at Santa Maria de Gracia in 1531. Not long after she fell into a coma so deep that she was thought to be dead. After 4 days she revived, but she remained paralyzed in her legs for 3 years and later attributed her recovery to St. Joseph. While she was in and out of Avila throughout her lifetime this woman was able to write an autobiography entitled the “Way of Perfection”, devoted her life to prayer and to the doctrine of prayer. I really enjoyed visiting the city but we were unable to see the finger of this saint which apparently lies within the cathedral-which happened to be closed when we arrived. Also being catholic I looked up what she was the patron saint for and surprisingly it was headaches.

This Sunday I went to Madrid to see a bullfight. Words do not compare because it was amazing and unlike what I had expected. It is hard to watch the bull be slain, but at the same time it is a part of the culture and I had a great experience overall. My matador was sporting a lavender outfit and is only 18 years old. After watching the fight I wanted to know more about what I had seen and this is the captivating result along with what I witnessed. The practice of bullfighting has been traced back to around the year 711 A.D. This tradition began as a way to honor the crowning of King Alfonso VIII. Originally a sport for the aristocracy this sport initially began on horseback. The use of horses is still incorporated today but only for roughly 10 minutes when the picadors ride out on horseback to stab the bull with 10 foot poles with razors at the ends (The horse is blindfolded during the event and I don’t blame them, I would have been scared too!). It was years later when King Felipe V banned the aristocracy from the sport and the commoners made the sport their own. They developed the practice of dodging the bulls on foot around 1724 and also started the practice unarmed.

The faena is considered the most beautiful and skillful section of the fight and where the matador must prove his courage and artistry. The faena consists of a bull running at the Matador carrying a muleta. This is a piece of thick crimson cloth draped over a short stick, which can be held in either the left hand or draped over the espada or the sword. It was interesting because the gentleman in front of us explained the matador has two swords. The first is for defensive use and is straight. The actual killing sword is longer and has a curved tip so that when the matador stabs the bull it goes directly into the heart. This is called an estocada and the bull should die instantly if the matador is a very good fighter. However if it hits bone it is a pinchazo or media-estocada. If the bull fails to die the matador may take the descabello or a very short sword which he stabs into the bull's neck severing the spinal cord. Then the fight was over and the net fight would begin. This was not as gruesome as I think we had imagined and the adrenaline we had I believe was shared by others who were screaming Spanish words that I did not recognize. In the end I believe my matador in Lavander was the best as in his last fight the bull forced him to the ground many times and he kept going back in there to finish the bull off.



Saturday, March 14, 2009

On the 9km walk back from La Granja Caleb and I saw this herd of sheep. They were happily grazing and then all of a sudden they began to stampede toward the sidewalk to eat the succulent grass below. Out of nowhere the sheep dog comes and drives them back up the hill. One sheep didn't get the message and was heading straight for the busy highway. Then in one motion he bounces up the hill and back to the herd. It was insane and this moment is something that I could not get my slow camera to capture. So after this encounter I was a little intrigued about sheep herding in Spain as I had not seen any yet. Come to find out that from the Middle Ages, sheep, or in reality the wool they produced, was a primary element of the Iberian economy until the 19th century. For the people sheep grazing was a way to earn an income off fertile and reasonably well-watered lands, including forested land. Also a specialty of Segovia is cordero lechal, baby lamb, which is roasted in a huge wood-fired oven. Sheep’s milk cheeses are impressive, especially soft, and magnificent ( my senora bought some). One is also able to find well-aged zamorano, made from the milk of Churra ewes who graze around the city of Zamora.


I hope this works but in Granada there were some wonderful street performers doing what they do best. Playing music. I remember sitting in the street thinking this is peaceful and my head was clear from all the stress of traveling. Music for me is an escape of sorts. It is a way to unwind, relate life to other peoples experiences, and be tranquil. I love all types of music but this experience was particularly captivating because they played flamenco and I listened. I had no worries, it was me, the sound of the guitars, and the lyrics. Street performing is nothing new in Spain. Many take to the streets to earn a few euro but also to share in most cases their talent with any passerby. Busking is the practice of performing in public place for tips and gratuities. People engaging in this practice are called buskers. The terms stems from the Britain and the place where the busker performs is called their pitch. Many actors and musicians have started their careers as buskers including: the Blue Man Group, Bob Hope, Jimmy Buffett, Robin Williams and Penn and Teller. Sit back and enjoy the music, because it will take you to unimaginable places.
I had a great weekend! The sun was shining and the weather was beautiful. We traveled to La Granja for a hike in the Sendero de los Reales Sitios. It is approximately 9100 meters and some of the most beautiful scenery that I have seen on this trip. Plus as the picture suggests I made it all the way to the end! The snow capped mountains in the distance and the Rio Valsain or Eresma running throughout the winding trails were wonderful for taking pictures. Some of the geological features date back to 40 million years old and what was really interesting to see was the Pinares de Valsain. For a stretch of the hike there were hundreds of cut pine trees that were placed in strategic piles. These pines are able to support the winter and summer climates and bring a distinct beauty to the area. In the year 1579 the town established protection for the forests and organisms that surround the city. However, the lumber yard still remains and is used to some degree. It was wonderful to explore the forests as many people travel to the city in order to see "mini" Versailles. I will probably have to make another trip back for that but to frolic in the woods was relaxing, especially with the other people that went.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

The catholic Kings Fernando and Isabel in the 16th century were the driving forces behind the first Spanish army. The main force for home defense was the Hermanadad (Brotherhood), which included both cavalry and infantry.

A sort of uniform was worn, consisting of a white woolen over-tunic with a hood, sleeves tight at the top and a red cross back and front. Trousers were also red; boots or sandals were worn. Helmets were commonly of sallet type, much favored in Spain at this time. Provincial militia served throughout the period, mainly against rebellions—in 1567 they were one-third crossbowmen, two-thirds arquebusiers, while the cavalry had lances.-myarmoury.com

This photo was taken in the Alcazar of Segovia and many people on the trip have come to learn about my fear of armory. It is a childish thing yes and the history behind these pieces is amazing but I cannot get over the fear of them coming down off their pedestals and lancing me. Funny, I know. However, imagine being alone in a room full of these intricate works and letting your imagination run wild. Creepy. The Alcazar of Segovia has a wonderful display of the armour and artillery. K
ing Carlos III founded the Royal Artillery School in 1762. It served this function for almost a hundred years until 1862 where a fire badly damaged the roofs and framework. The preservation of these pieces is beyond compare and I enjoyed -for the most part- seeing the display of these pieces.

The disposition of the hands. Posed here as El Greco depicts in his paintings, the disposicion de las manos is a characteristic that distinguishes him from other painters of his time. In Toledo, we were unable to take photos in any of the buildings that we encountered. This was a shame because we were able to experience many of El Greco's famous works. El Expolio was in the cathedral and it is my favorite piece by the painter. King Phillip II had commissioned El Greco to paint for his palace El Escorial however, the King only accepted one of his paintings because he did not agree with the distinct characteristics that the painter used. First El Expolio depicts other members of society higher than Jesus himself. Also El Greco incorporated characters from different time periods into his work. Other distinct characteristics include the use of colors Venetians and mannerist's-these styles were learned from Tiziano and Michael Angelo. I have really enjoyed learning about this artistic genius in my art and architecture class, and what made Toledo even better was seeing the paintings in real life. It is one thing to explain the beauty of a piece as it sits on a projector but it is enlightening to experience it in reality. Being able to get out of the classroom and actually stand where others have stood is an incredible feeling. The truth is I knew very little about this painter before arriving to Spain and now I feel like I could discuss him and his works. Therefore even though I have no picture of his works, they are ingrained in my memory.

Monday, March 9, 2009

I really like this picture because not long after the sun disappeared for a length of time. I think that the tower with its ornate detail and sculptures was the best part of the exterior of this building. The north tower of La Catedral de Toledo stands at 295 feet (90m) high and was built from 1380-1440. Inside is the famous bell known as the Campana Gorda, cast in 1753 it weighs 17 tons. For this excursion we had a guide and I really enjoyed her enthusiasm. She spoke very clearly and I was able to understand more of the history behind the monuments than I would usually receive just by walking through them.

Inside the cathedral there were red hats-of various styles- hanging from the ceiling in front of El Transparente. These hats once belonged to the cardinals who are buried in the tombs directly beneath. I learned that Toledo's cardinals have the ability of choosing anywhere in the cathedral to be buried, and their hats are hung above the tombs until they rot away. The guide also told us a legend about these hats but she says it isn’t true. However, I hope that it doesn't take a hat falling to the ground for the Cardinals soul to go to heaven. I had a really wonderful time in this cathedral and at the end of the tour we were able to touch a stone that sits beneath the statue of the Virgin Mary and is supposed to bring good luck. I hope that this is not merely legend.