Sunday, March 8, 2009

The disposition of the hands. Posed here as El Greco depicts in his paintings, the disposicion de las manos is a characteristic that distinguishes him from other painters of his time. In Toledo, we were unable to take photos in any of the buildings that we encountered. This was a shame because we were able to experience many of El Greco's famous works. El Expolio was in the cathedral and it is my favorite piece by the painter. King Phillip II had commissioned El Greco to paint for his palace El Escorial however, the King only accepted one of his paintings because he did not agree with the distinct characteristics that the painter used. First El Expolio depicts other members of society higher than Jesus himself. Also El Greco incorporated characters from different time periods into his work. Other distinct characteristics include the use of colors Venetians and mannerist's-these styles were learned from Tiziano and Michael Angelo. I have really enjoyed learning about this artistic genius in my art and architecture class, and what made Toledo even better was seeing the paintings in real life. It is one thing to explain the beauty of a piece as it sits on a projector but it is enlightening to experience it in reality. Being able to get out of the classroom and actually stand where others have stood is an incredible feeling. The truth is I knew very little about this painter before arriving to Spain and now I feel like I could discuss him and his works. Therefore even though I have no picture of his works, they are ingrained in my memory.

Thursday, February 26, 2009


So the picture decided not to load but imagine sitting in a lush garden with a fountain trickling in the background. The flowers are not quite in bloom however there is greenery all around and orange trees in every small plaza. In Andalusia this is typical scenery. Everywhere, especially at the Alhambra gorgeous landscape as far as you can see. I learned from various sources in my travels that these orange trees have a very interesting history. One guy from California that we met said that the King did not want the orange peels to be all over the streets so they were cross-bred with limes/lemons in order to have a bitter taste. Whether this is true or not is beyond me. Another source said that these oranges were used for marmalade. After a little bit of research I have found that this is also not the case. In fact my teacher Pepita clarified that these oranges (mostly seen by me in Sevilla) are exported to Britain. Seville oranges are used in the classic sauce bigarade, traditionally served with roast duck. Another tidbit about oranges is that when they first reached Europe, they were so rare that they became a symbol of opulence to be offered as luxury gifts. Hearing various ideas about how these oranges are actually used was a fun experience in my travels. My senora buys us oranges and we go through marmalade as if it was going out of style. Finding out what is fact verse fiction about one of my favorite fruits was quite an experience. I am still not sure of their intended use -those that come from Andalusia but I am definitely more educated about these tasty treats.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

The Heladeria Tiggiani makes stopping in busy Plaza Nueva worthwhile. The three of us stopped by here after the Alhambra and there is little information known about this heladeria but the Tiggiani family have been selling ice cream on the corner of the plaza and Calle De Elvira since 1961. It was by far the best ice cream I have ever had and because of this adventure we made it a point to search for an equal contender throughout the rest of the trip. Needless to say there was not one but it was fun to try. This was worthwhile because I was able to appreciate the small business man which sometimes is hard in the states due to the corporations buying out these nostalgic places. Walmart, while it services my needs, is also a pain for the small business owner and without proceeding into the economics behind this theory, this experience makes me appreciate the fact there are not many large chains in Spain. You must search for the experiences here and hunt for the stores that carry what you desire to find. I love that I am not bogged down by the labels that we have come to recognize in the U.S., here in Spain. It is nice to wander down the streets and actually go into the stores without much purpose. I think this is a memory that I won't forget because it reflects una vida sencilla.
Carnavales in Granada, Spain. This city was my favorite of the three we traveled to and to be quite frank I probably could have spent the entire time there. We ventured to La Alhambra on Saturday and it was simply amazing. The architecture is unlike anything I have ever seen in the United States and the intricate detail of every room was unbelievable. This picture was taken in the Court of Lions and unfortunately the lions were being restored, so I was unable to take a picture of them. They are one of the few remains of the Islamic animal representations. The incomparable beauty of this place and the way it made me feel walking through is beyond words. It is hard to visualize the Alhambra as anything less than magnificent because it has seen a great deal of damage after the Christian conquest of the city in 1492. The open work was filled up with whitewash, the painting and gilding effaced, and the furniture soiled, torn, or removed. Personally, I believe the preservation is amazing considering that explosives and an earthquake have also damaged the building. I enjoyed experiencing this magnificent place and roaming through the palace. Going to places like the Alhambra make you feel like you are apart of history instead of a lonely bystander who only reads about these places in books. Hands down the Alhambra has stolen my heart as far as history and beauty goes.

Sunday, February 15, 2009


Coca Castle was built in the 15th century by Alonso de Fonseca; the mighty archbishop of Seville, during the reign of King Enrique IV of Castile. It's made up of two square baileys separated by a passageway. The double walls are 2.5 m thick and it's circled by a deep dry moat. It is considered to be the highest example of brick military architecture with Mudejar filigree work. This structure was simply amazing. I cannot describe the beauty that it radiated. Unlike much of the other castle we ventured into this one seemed to have more of its history preserved and appreciated. It seemed that even though it now functions as a school like the other castle it still makes you feel like you are apart of something much more complicated than you. I enjoyed the guided tour and everything this majestic place had to offer.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Churros con chocolate! A treat that I have come to enjoy. The churro con chocolate finds its origin in Spain and is sometimes referred to as the Spanish doughnut. These delacasies are fried-dough pastry snacks, sometimes made from potato dough. Churros are also loved in a variety of countries including: Latin America, France, Portugal and the U.S. The snack gets its name from its shape, which resembles the horns of the Churro a breed of sheep reared in the Spanish grasslands of Castilla. There are two types of churros in Spain. One is thin -usually knotted-and the other, especially popular in Madrid, is long and thick. They both are normally eaten for breakfast dipped in delicious chocolate. I have had my fair share of these treats and have to cut myself off otherwise I would be spending quite a bit of money on fried dough. However, the thing I took away from this experience is why they are shaped the way they are. Who would have thought is was becasue of sheep?

Monday, February 9, 2009




Megan, Molly, and I ventured to Zamarramala for the Fiesta de Santa Agueda. It was very interesting to see the famous governor's wives, dressed in sumptuous gowns from the 12th century carrying the scepter of authority. Everyone proceeded to follow these "matahombres" through the streets as we watched in amazement. We must have arrived early because we were in the procession to receive the women from their houses. Unfortunately, we didn't stay long enough to see the burning of the "pelele" -a representation of machisimo that is still an issue in modern day Spain. This tradition dating back to 1227 has remained the same throughout the years . It is a time to remember and celebrate Santa Agueda the patron Saint of married women and mothers. It is important to these women and to me because in the United States women are very lucky to have the rights they do, while in other countries many women suffer as a result of violence and chauvinism.